Troubleshooting
If you are experiencing problems with your engine there is often a simple solution.
This section is to help during an event or testing session where, as in most cases, the problem can be solved in a short amount of time given the correct instruction. Where the internet is not available, it is strongly advised to print or copy this page as a form of check list before hand. There are also some useful installation techniques included to prevent problems.
This section is to help during an event or testing session where, as in most cases, the problem can be solved in a short amount of time given the correct instruction. Where the internet is not available, it is strongly advised to print or copy this page as a form of check list before hand. There are also some useful installation techniques included to prevent problems.
- Camshaft Timing - Check that all of the timing marks line up together. When the timing is a tooth out, the engine can still run but could potentially damage the engine. The Cam timing marks on the cam pulleys are marked with a yellow dot. These should meet together when positioned at TDC. In this position, the timing mark on the high data rate wheel should line up with the crank sensor. Sometimes it is possible for the cam pulleys to be in the TDC position whilst the crank sensor mark has not yet reached its TDC position by half a tooth. This is due to the slack in the cam belt. Applying small clockwise pressure to the crank bolt (without moving the cam pulleys) will take the slack out of the belt, making the marks line up correctly. If the marks do not line up at all, there is a chance that the cambelt has jumped. If this is the case the engine must not be turned over until the timing marks are re-aligned. Re-align the timing marks by turning the crank slowly and carefully into a safe position (all the pistons halfway up the bore).Then turn the cam pulleys to their TDC mark. Turn the crank back to its TDC position, re-fit the cambelt and check timing marks.
- Cambelt - Make sure that the cambelt is at the correct tension and is not damaged in any way. Regular cambelt changes are recommended.
- Air filter - An old or blocked air filter can cause overfueling, poor starting and could lead to potential damage to the engines internals. Check that the air filter is clean. The recommended air filter for Millington engines is the ITG Mega flow air filter. If your engine has a different type of filter on it, make sure it has sufficient filtration and that the inner element is not too close to the trumpets. It is recommended that the air filter is changed after every event.
- Check Spark plugs- replace the NGK plugs and add a shrink wrap coating to the porcelain, like on the original spark plugs that came with the engine.
- Check or Replace Plug leads- Check for a tight fit on the coil and onto the plugs. If loose on the coil at an event, you can cable tie the rubber to the coil to get you out of trouble. This can also be used as an anti vibration precaution. Older leads are a common cause of misfires. Replace if in doubt.
- Check Ignition Coil Pack - An old or faulty coil pack can cause poor ignition or even failure to start. Simply remove plug leads and 3 pin connector off the old coil. Then unbolt the old coil off oil pump/bulkhead/dash. Bolt on new coil. Make sure to keep the same sparking order when reconnecting the plug leads.
- Check all Sensors - If a sensor if faulty it can very easily cause a misfire or prevent the engine from running. When a sensor sends a false signal to the ECU, the engine will run in accordance to the incorrect or non existent sensor values. For example: A faulty water temperature sensor can cause the engine to under or over fuel due to the ecu's fuel compensation at low temperatures. Crank sensors can fail and cause starting and performance issues. When removed or replaced, the sensor must be repositioned with a gap of exactly 0.012" from the high data rate wheel. If the gap is larger, the crank sensor will 'loose counts' causing a misfire often at tickover. A smaller gap will put the sensor at risk of hitting the high data rate wheel.
- Check Injectors - Make sure each injector works correctly. The Ecu software does have a built-in injector testing program, which allows the injector solinoids to open and close, giving off a clicking sound. Injectors will be silent if faulty. Swapping the connector on to a new injector will confirm this.Always perform an injector test with the fuel pump off or disconnected. This clicking can also be heard with the engine running to test if they are working or not.
- Check Loom - Faulty Looms will undoubtedly cause misfires. Check all earths. Check for tight kinks in the loom, non standard wiring modifications, over tightened cable ties and replaced or non standard connectors. If in doubt replace loom.
- Fuel - You must use the same fuel that the engine has been mapped on in order to achieve maximum performance and reliability. Most of our engines are mapped on 'Carless Racing Fuels - Hiperflow 300', which is '102' Octane Rating. We recommend Carless as the standard fuel for Millington engines.Some fuels have varied RON ratings when purchased in different country's. A different octane fuel can cause piston failure or a misfire. Do not run the engine under load with a different fuel. www.vitalequiptment.co.uk www.morrowfuels.co.uk
- Fuel Pressure - The fuel pressure must be set the same as when the engine was mapped. Usually set to 2.5 BAR/36.25 PSI or 3.5BAR/51PSI. Check that the fuel pressure regulator is installed correctly and is the one used when mapped.
- Oil - Make sure you have more than sufficient oil in the dry sump tank at all times. Never let the dry sump tank level drop below 2/3s full. This can effect the deaeration of the oil. We recommend a high quality semi or fully synthetic oil such as Morris Oils 'Multivis MLR 10W-50' (Previously X-RPM Competition 10W-50) https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/
- Engine bay Temperature - The temperature under the bonnet or in the engine bay is critical to the performance and overall life of the engine. Air vents, grills, scoops and 'cutouts' are great for lowering the engine bay temperature. Check that the under bonnet temperature is less than 25-30 degrees Celsius when the car is at speed. In warmer climates this can be difficult. The correct preparation for reducing under bonnet temperatures and air flow, can generate 'free power'. This is because when the air is cooler it becomes denser, allowing a greater volume of air, thus increased oxygen intake and producing a more efficient combustion.
- Air flow - Sufficient engine bay air flow is essential. This is important as it can reduce heat transfer from the exhaust system to vital components.
- Throttle pot - Check that the throttle pot is connected correctly and that it has not been moved or loosened. Check the throttle pot is functioning correctly by plugging into the ecu and observing the throttle position. Check that the 'THROTT' value is '0' with the throttle closed and '100' fully open. Also make sure that the throttle values raise and lower in a parallel fashion with the throttle pedal. Every unit between 0-100 should be available.Check that the values do not 'jump'. For Example 0-40 or 0-60-90-100. If the throttle pot has been moved or needs to be replaced, you can recalibrate it. Refer to the 'TPS Calibration Diagram' in the downloads section.
